Released in 1977, the Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038 is recognized as one of the best value propositions of any in the watch’s long history. As an older model, it has become more affordable on the preowned market but it manages the tricky task of marrying both vintage charm and modern day functionality. Since day one the President has been an exclusively precious metal creation; all three flavors of gold, as well as platinum on rarer and even pricier occasions.
Head to toe, the ref. 18038 is cast in 18k yellow gold—not something ever likely to go by the description understated, but at 36mm it is by no means overpowering either. Nevertheless, this is a watch to draw attention, bordering on the flashy, and it earned itself another nickname in the mid-80s. With more Rolex watches being sold in the oil-rich Lone Star State than any other in the country, the solid gold Day-Date became known as the Texas Timex. Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038 Movements
The ref. 18038 was the first reference of the fourth generation Day-Dates to be issued, and as such it had the honor of debuting an all-new caliber. The Cal. 3055 superseded the outgoing Cal. 1556, bringing with it two vital improvements. To begin with, the balance frequency earned a substantial increase, going from the previous 19,800vph up to the now standard 28,800vph. It gives Rolex’s trademark sweep to the seconds hand as well as providing the watch with a greater accuracy and more shock protection. And secondly, it brought the Quickset feature that allowed wearers to advance the date with the crown independently of the main hands.