Rolex Submariner 5513 Gilt Open chapter ring

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic sports watches and a model that represents the greatest attributes of the manufacturer..

Like many brands, Rolex produced gilt dials for its sports watches in the early '60s, including Subs. These dials were produced by a time-intensive process that exposed the underlying metal of the dial blank. Since the technique exposes the blank brass underneath the dial's face, this often results in golden text and markers. A lacquer is also added, giving the black dial a "glossy," shiny finish.

This gilt process was used by Rolex to produce 5513 (and 5512) dials until the late '60s. Today, collectors still love gilt dials because they're deep and rich, with metallic lettering that no paint can match – and gilt Subs carry the price premiums to prove it.

Our sub gilt "pallettoni" is even "brown," a peculiarity that makes it even more desirable.
The American rivet bracelet and its "full" case likewise.