The Rolex Submariner Ref. 16803 marks a pivotal chapter in the evolution of the two-tone Submariner, redefining the balance between professional tool watch and luxury sports icon. Introduced in the mid-1980s, it represents Rolex’s clear statement that functionality and prestige could coexist without dilution. This reference is where the steel and yellow gold Submariner truly comes into its own.
Historically, the 16803 replaces the earlier full-gold 16808, bringing the Rolesor concept into a more wearable, versatile territory. It is also the transitional Submariner that bridges vintage and modern: sapphire crystal replaces plexiglass, increased water resistance becomes the norm, and technical refinement takes precedence over purely utilitarian design. This is the Submariner that sets the template for all subsequent two-tone generations.
The black dial with gold accents is the most emblematic configuration. High-contrast, bold, and unmistakably Rolex, it enhances legibility while amplifying the watch’s visual authority. The applied gold markers, matching hands, and black bezel insert create a sharp, confident aesthetic that has aged exceptionally well. It is not a discreet Submariner—and it was never meant to be.
At its core beats the calibre 3035, a high-beat automatic movement with quickset date, renowned for robustness, precision, and ease of service. Paired with the reference-correct 93153 bracelet with 18k gold center links and 493 end links, the watch delivers both structural integrity and unmistakable presence.