Breguet Marine Big Date Full Set

The Breguet Marine 5817ST occupies a particularly interesting position in modern Breguet history. Introduced as the second-generation Marine in the early 2000s, it was conceived to reinterpret the Maison's traditional chronometric heritage through a more contemporary, sport-oriented architecture. The result is a watch that combines unmistakable Breguet codes with the robustness expected from a modern daily-wear timepiece.

This 2019 example in stainless steel represents one of the most distinctive configurations of the Marine collection, pairing a white/silvered hand-guilloché dial with the highly practical Big Date display at 6 o'clock. The dial is produced in 18K gold and individually engine-turned, preserving one of Breguet's most important artisanal signatures. The characteristic Breguet hands and Roman numerals complete a dial whose apparent simplicity reveals considerable technical and decorative refinement.

The 39mm stainless-steel case is equally characteristic. Its finely fluted caseband, rounded welded lugs, screw-down crown and sapphire display back give the Marine its unmistakable architecture, while 100 metres of water resistance make it considerably more versatile than the traditional dress watches for which Breguet is historically known.

Inside beats the Breguet Calibre 517GG, an automatic movement with 35 jewels, adjusted in five positions and offering approximately 65 hours of power reserve. One of its most remarkable details is visible through the sapphire back: the oscillating weight is made from 18K gold and decorated with hand-executed guilloché, echoing the decoration of the dial. This is not merely a functional rotor, but an integral part of Breguet's haute horlogerie approach.

The combination of hand-finishing, the gold guilloché rotor, the sculptural case architecture and the Big Date complication makes the 5817ST considerably more interesting from a collector's perspective than its position within the secondary market might initially suggest.

Today, earlier Marine references such as the 5817 are attracting renewed attention from collectors looking beyond the more obvious names in modern independent and high horology collecting. The discontinued 5817 generation, particularly in well-preserved configurations with original components and complete documentation, is increasingly appreciated for its combination of technical substance, distinctive design and relatively understated market profile.

This example is offered as a Full Set, dating to 2019, and retains its original Breguet rubber strap and original deployant clasp — an important detail for collectors looking for an example that remains faithful to its original specification.

A particularly compelling Breguet for the collector who appreciates craftsmanship over hype: technically sophisticated, visually unmistakable and increasingly difficult to overlook.